BASYE, VIRGINIA

SIGHTS IN BASYE, VIRGINIA



 


The flora and fauna surrounding our new home in the mountains at Basye, Virginia. Our property, 16 acres, is bordered by the National Forest on two sides and is far from the hustle and bustle of the city life that we have led for many years near Northern Virginia. We sit on a small mountaintop ridge named Turtledove Ridge (appropriate for me because I raise doves!). To the west and behind our property the towering and majestic North Mountain and to the East when the leaves fall we can overlook the slopes of Bryce Resort and the beautiful mountains which cradle it. Ah, life is good.



OLD IRON FURNACE IN BASYE, VIRGINIA

I haven't been able to find out the name of this old iron furnace, which sits on a small creek on Route 717 (Alum Springs Road) in Basye near our property. Below is a link to a great site which describes the hard work involved in the making of the first pig iron and how it got it's name. As I find out more about this particular furnace, I will update this area. We also live near Columbia Furnace and Liberty Furnace in Woodstock, Virginia.

- Lee Ranger District Link

  

Today’s ‘furnace’ crossroads were once thriving
industrial communities

by Peggy Boston, Bryce Mountain Courier
 
Spring. In the Shenandoah Valley. Finally.
 
This year, perhaps more than ever, it wasn’t clear if it would ever arrive. Spring temperatures were here in January, then quickly disappeared in February. The Vernal Equinox came on March 20 with spring-like 70s on one side and wintery 30s on the other.
 
But as always, a sure sign that the weather has finally turned for good is the heathery lavender of the trees covering the mountains that define the Valley.
 
Viewed from a drive along I-81, the hills of Massanutten and Great North in early spring lose their sharp edges and appear almost moss covered, soft and hazy. A closer look from Rts. 11 or 42, or especially a trip along back roads closer to the mountains, makes it clear that our rich forests are in bud, soon to once again become lush with green leaves.
 
Spring in the Valley, 19th Century style
 
Flashback. It’s the spring of 1836 in Shenandoah County. A horseback or carriage ride on the Valley Pike gives you views of barren mountains, with some sapling re-growth beginning to show. The trees are being clear-cut, and have been since the Revolutionary War, to make charcoal to fuel the iron ore furnaces that are a major industry in the Valley. 
 
By May, the scenery will also include black smoke from the half dozen or so furnaces in the area that will operate 24 hours a day through the smelting season until early September. The communities that have grown up around the furnaces bring a lot of activity to the county, including a cacophony of sound … the almost ceaseless chopping of trees (no chain saws here), pick ax and shovel against mountain rock to dig out iron ore, mules and oxen pulling wagons loaded with wood or charcoal or ore. The fiery blast of the furnaces themselves, as they swallow tons of charcoal and limestone and ore, and spit out tons of molten iron.
 
History of Shenandoah County’s six furnaces
 
Anyone who has taken the time to drive the county roads knows there is a history of some kind of furnaces in Shenandoah County. Just read the road signs. Columbia Furnace, Liberty Furnace, Caroline and Elizabeth and Henrietta Furnaces, Van Buren Furnace.
 
And there are many written accounts of the iron ore industry in the area from the 1760s through around 1905. The stories, however, have conflicting dates by a year or more, and varying tales of who burned or destroyed what and when. So, though this information comes from excellent sources and sometimes original records from the iron companies, you will see a lot of “abouts,” “averages” and “probablys” in dates and other figures.
 
Who were these iron merchants and what brought them to this quiet, agricultural valley?
Most were Pennsylvanians who operated successful iron manufacturing companies using ores from the Appalachian Mountains to our north. Reports of a rich source of iron ore in the Shenandoah Valley attracted them to simply follow the mountain chain south, where they quickly found all the necessary assets for a thriving iron industry: ore, limestone, water and vast timberlands.
 
Thomas Jefferson cited five furnaces in Virginia in his 1781 “Notes on Virginia,” including two in the Valley. But the first furnace built in Shenandoah County was probably Columbia in 1803 or 04 on Stony Creek six miles northwest of Edinburg. Records show that it was destroyed three times by Union troops during the Civil War. Today, there are no ruins to visit.
 
Liberty Furnace was built in 1822, several miles up a branch of Stony Creek west of Columbia. It is said it have been partially burned on several occasions during the War. Very little remains, and its location is now on private property.     
Caroline, which was burned by Union troops in March 1865, may have been rebuilt and used again for a few years. It was located along what is now Rt. 675 just south of Kings Crossing in Fort Valley. 
 
Elizabeth Furnace (1836-1888) was on Passage Creek in Fort Valley, north of Kings Crossing on Rt. 678. Now totally overgrown, the U.S. Forest Service has created the “Pig Iron Trail” through the Elizabeth Furnace Recreation Area to trace the history of iron making for visitors to the George Washington National Forest. The Forest Service has nominated it for inclusion on the National Register of Historic Places. 
 
Van Buren Furnace, just south of Zepp off of Rt. 603, is perhaps the best preserved of the furnaces, with most of the chimney in tact. It is posted, on private land between Little North and Great North mountains. It can easily been seen and photographed from the road so there is no need to trespass to enjoy this relic.
 
The remains of Henrietta, or Myers, Furnace is on Rt. 717 (Alum Springs Road) just a few miles northwest of Basye. One account says it was destroyed by the Union in 1864 and never rebuilt. It, too, is posted on private property, but is well worth a look as it has a near-complete chimney.
 
Both Van Buren and Henrietta give you a clear idea of how the furnaces were situated, against a small hill, so that the ore, limestone and charcoal could easily been dropped down the chimney.
 
The Forest Service interpretation of Elizabeth Furnace gives a good picture of community life around the furnaces. The area, colloquially called an “Iron Plantation,” included a mansion for the “Iron Master,” cottages for the workers, tool and storage sheds, carpenter and blacksmith shops, a general store, stable for the mules and oxen, and a school for the children of the workers. Some historians have likened this structure to what is known as a company town in latter-day coal mining regions.
 
It has been estimated by some furnace historians that as much as 23,000 acres were clear cut over a 30-year period during the height of the iron industry in Shenandoah County in the mid 1800s. Some examples of how the wood was gobbled up (a cord = a stack of wood four feet by four feet by eight feet or 128 cubic feet):
·        3 cords of wood to fire a furnace for 2 hours and produce 1 cubic foot of iron
·        8 cords per 1 ton of pig iron
·        Furnaces ran 24 hours a day for 123 days, May 1 to September 1
·        4,428 cords of wood cut each year to provide the charcoal
 
This is the yield of about 150 acres of woodland.
 
Times 6 furnaces equals 900 acres.
 
Over 30 years before the land could be cut again, equals up to 27,000 acres of forest clear-cut.
 
The remains of the day
 
“If you know where to look in the forest today,” said Joe Lehnan, Area Forester for the Virginia Department of Forestry, “you can see big circles of left over charcoal. Large black circles covered over by forest undergrowth.”
 
Lehnan also pointed out that a walk in the National Forest in this area can also reveal saucer-like depressions and/or long trenches where the ore was mined.
 
“By the early 1900s the forests in this area were clear-cut, with saplings growing back,” at different rates depending on how long it had been since the original cut. “The good news is that re-growth brought back more oak trees than were originally here because they could get more of the sunlight they like,” Lehnan said.
 
Lehnan also noted that the forest around Liberty Furnace still reveals the remains of a small railroad bed, for the so-called “Dinky Railroad” that carried ore and charcoal from the forest to the furnace, and on to Edinburg.
 
John Coleman of Woodstock, a former slkdjflkj asljdf l ljdfl sdf , added information about the work done at Union Forge on Stony Creek between Edinburg and Lantz Mill. “The pig iron was brought to the forges to be refined into anchonies, large pieces of malleable iron.” This was done with enormous water-powered hammers operated by very skilled workers.
Coleman said that the book “Bond of Iron: Master and Slave at Buffalo Forge,” noted that the iron company supervisors there preferred slave laborers because they were far more skilled. They often were paid for overtime to encourage the best work from them, and many of the slaves were able to buy their freedom, according to the book.
 
The anchonies were then further hammered into merchant bars by less skilled workers, which in turn could be molded into useful iron products such as pots, kettles, flatirons, anvils, wagon boxes and many other items. During the Civil War, forges produced weapons and other strategic materials for the Confederate effort. 
 
Thanks from the Courier to Joe Lehnan, John Coleman and Jean Martin of the Shenandoah County Library archives for providing information for this article. Sources include: The Historic Iron and Charcoaling Industries by the USDA Forest Service; Iron. County’s furnaces once busy industries, by WM. J. Didawick, July 1976 Shenandoah Valley Herald; and A History of Shenandoah County, Virginia 1780-1880, by John W. Wayland.
 
How pig iron was made – Elizabeth Furnace 1836-88
 
Typical iron furnaces took eight to 12 months to build. They were roughly 30 feet square and about 30 feet high with inclining sides so that the top of the furnace was about 20 feet square. The outside was constructed of stone insulated from the core by mortar, broken stone and sand. The core was lined with firebrick. They were built along the side of a hill so that the ore, limestone and charcoal could more easily be wheeled across a bridge from the hill to be emptied into the top of the furnace.
 
1.      Men called fillers carefully measured set quantities of iron ore, limestone and charcoal, carried them across the wooden bridge, and dumped them into the furnace in alternate layers. The furnace was kept filled nearly to the top.
2.      A water wheel and bellows were located to one side of the furnace. Water diverted from Passage Creek turned the water wheel, which operated the bellows. The bellows forced heated air into the furnace, causing the charcoal to burn with a white heat. This extreme heat (2,000 to 3,000 degrees Fahrenheit) melted the iron, and it settled to the bottom of the furnace, called the crucible.
3.      The limestone served as a flux causing the molten iron to separate from the impurities and flow downward. The waste floated to the top of the molten iron and flowed out through an opening into a circular depression dug in the ground. There it cooled into cinder and slag and was later broken up and carted away. These by-products can still be found today at furnace sites.
4.      Two or three times a day, a tap-hole was opened and the molten iron flowed from the furnace into casting beds of sand. The name “pig iron” may have come from the shape of the casts, which could be seen as a sow and her litter of suckling pigs. Before the iron became cold, the pigs were separated from the sow and broken into small pieces for easier handling.
 
From a George Washington National Forest, USDA  Poster
 
 How charcoal was made
 
Charcoal was the preferred fuel for the ore furnaces because it is free of sulphur and its ash lime and alkalis supplied a natural flux to help separate the iron from the ore. The average furnace used 600 to 800 bushels of charcoal every 24 hours. That translates to an acre of woodland each day for each furnace.
Hickory was considered the best wood, but any solid trees (no deadwood) were used. 
 
1.   Strips of land about 20 ax handles wide were assigned to different woodchoppers. The trees were felled so that the tops would meet along the dividing line of each man’s area. The trees were then trimmed and cut into four-foot lengths. It was often chopped in the winter and stacked in cords until the furnaces were fired up in the spring. Woodchoppers earned 40 to 50 cents a cord a day and generally could chop two cords in that time. An experienced man could do five cords a day. When ready to use, the wood was taken to the hearth on a sled pulled by mules or horses.
2.   Nearby, a circular area (hearth) 30 to 40 feet in diameter was cleared and leveled. 
3.   A guild pole (fagan) 18 feet long and three or four inches in diameter was placed upright in the center of the hearth. Then a triangular chimney was constructed around the fagan using lap wood, one and a half to four inches in diameter.
4.   When the chimney was five feet high, the four-foot long billets (four to seven inches in diameter) were set on end against the chimney with each piece a little further away from the chimney at ground level. When the first ring was completed additional rings were added until the circular hearth was covered. Lap wood was used to fill any air spaces.
5.   Next, the collier (a skilled charcoal maker) climbed on top of the wood pile, built the chimney up another four feet or so, and set a second tier of billets and lap wood. This procedure continued until a rounded structure was formed. The guide pole was removed and smaller wood was laid horizontally to round off the top. The chimney was filled with wood chips and fine kindling.
6.   The mound-like woodpile was then covered with leaves and several inches of charcoal dust left over from previous burnings to make it as airtight as possible so that the wood would char rather than burn.
7.   A part of the chimney was removed and red-hot coals were shoveled on top of the kindling. Then, the chimney was re-covered and the top of the mound was covered by at least a foot of coal dust.
8.   During the 10 days to two weeks it took the wood to char, a rod was used to punch small draft holes near the base to make the charring uniform on all sides of the pit. The collier could tell by the color of the smoke that the charring was completed.
9.   Small portions of charcoal were dug out from the edge of the mound with a shovel and, little by little, raked into separate rings to cool so that if one ring burst into flame it would not ignite others. When there was no longer a threat of fire, the charcoal was loaded on wagons that held about 200 bushes and hauled by a team of six mules to the charcoal house where it awaited use in the furnace

WETLANDS TRADING COMPANY

Come visit the unique Wetlands Trading Company - Gift and Garden Shop. On Route 263 (Orkney Grade) in Basye, VA. This fun shop is open weekends or by appointment. You will find plants, gifts, woodcrafts, garden accents, mulch, stone, pond supplies and more!  Give them a shout at 540.856.2553. Ask to hear the singing bowls when you visit, they are wonderful!

         

DEAUVILLE DEER FARM


Deer Farm in Basye, VA
photo by Diane Elliott of 2000.shenandoah.com

 

Bowers Buffalo Farm at Jerome

photo by Diane Elliott of 2000.shenandoah.com

 

Liberty Furnace Mill

photo by Diane Elliott of 2000.shenandoah.com

Sky Chalet has reopened under new management and with a new face

Visit skychalet.com

 

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